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"If your mother cooks Italian food, why should you go to a restaurant?" - Martin Scorsese

Almond Amaretti

11/14/2020

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My grandfather, Francesco, was a burly, strong man, both in physic and character. Having suffered throat cancer, he used a microphone-line contraption placed near his voice box to talk. As a young child growing up, I always found this interesting and somewhat mysterious. Despite what some might call a handicap to his voice, he certainly got his point across during an argument or conversation. Having to speak this way certainly didn’t limit his desire to talk, or even want to argue with you about mundane topics!   
 
One aspect about his character that I found somewhat amusing was his sweet tooth. For such a strong person, one would think sweets wouldn’t be his thing, but they sure were! He was especially fond of two items, Perugina “Grifo” chocolates, and Amaretti cookies. The Grifo are small, solid chocolates that come both in milk and dark varieties. They are plain, and there’s nothing extravagant about them. I would equate them to our plain Hersey Kisses. He had a tendency to hide a handful of these in his nightstand and would munch on them in the middle of the night. When my family would visit my grandparents, who lived just a few steps from our own home, my sister and I would often sneak to their bedroom and head straight to that nightstand. Opening the drawer, you’d be greeted with the scent of freshly laundered man’s underwear, and white ribbed undershirts that Italian men are still known for wearing. But tucked at the corner, out of sight, or so he thought, we would always find the coveted Grifo. We would always sneak just one or two each and munch on them quickly. He wasn’t known for generosity, so he really didn’t like sharing these!
 
His other favored treats were the Amaretti cookies purchased from the pasticceria. Growing up during war times, luxuries such as cookies and chocolates weren’t an everyday treat. And our small town didn’t have a bakery. But he would often have to travel to Catanzaro, our largest city neary by, and visit a doctor for his ailments. On his way back from the doctors, he would stop at the bakery and purchase just a few Amaretti that he, and just he, would enjoy. At the bakery, they would also add Grifo chocolates to his tray, as is typical even today to have them “throw in” these little chocolates when preparing take-away trays. So the two always go hand in hand.
 
Amaretti and Grifo Chocolates for me will always be nostalgic. I’ll never be able to have either without thinking of my grandfather Francesco (or Ciccio, as the name is often abbreviated to), my namesake.
 
One can make Amaretti in a variety of ways, either using almond flour or the much sweeter almond paste. I prefer using the flour. It gives the cookies a much less sweeter aftertaste and the consistency is far less chewy. The top will crack a bit, as is typical of this cookie. You could also make them using very fine ground hazelnuts. And while also delicious, the traditional flavor is almond.
Almond Amaretti
Depending on size, this recipe makes 40+ Amaretti
 
Ingredients
5 cups almond flour
1 1/3 cups granulated sugar
5 large egg whites
1 tablespoon pure almond extract
Approximately 1 cup powdered sugar
 
Instructions
  1. In a large mixing bowl add the flour and sugar and mix well using a fork or clean fingers. Mix so that the sugar blends well with the flour and is almost unnoticeable in the mix.
  2. In another large bowl, beat the egg whites with a hand-held whisk. Whisk until bubbles form and whites are very airy. 
  3. Add the almond extract and continue mixing until whites are fully infused with the extract.
  4. Add the egg white mixture into the bowl with the dry ingredients and mix through using a large spoon.
  5. Once it’s starting to bind, use your hands to combine everything even further until everything mixes really well together. (If it’s too sticky, you can add additional almond flour.) Let dough rest for 1 hour in the fridge or even counter. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
  6. Using a cookie scoop or two spoons, make small round balls, roll between your hands to assure they are all perfectly round. Drop the cookies in the powdered sugar and coat in sugar.  Place cookies on a cookie sheet that has been lined with parchment paper.
  7. Slightly flatten the balls with your hands. Bake for about 17 minutes, but check at around the 15-minute mark as oven vary. (Variations: you can add an almond or candied cherry on top for decorations.)
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All About Chestnuts!

11/14/2020

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​When it comes to food and cooking, fall and winter are definitely my favorite seasons. One of my all time favorite treats to enjoy during this time of year include chestnuts. Chestnuts are the symbolic fruit of autumn, and in addition to being delicious, they also have many beneficial properties.
 
The chestnut is a very common tree in central and southern Europe. It tolerates low temperatures well, and is only damaged by very intense cold. Fruits need time to ripen, and a little rain. Chestnuts are enclosed in a very prickly shell, and protected by a brown peel, can thus be harvested in late September, October and November. Grocery store chestnuts have obviously had their outer prikcly shell removed.
 
In Italy there are about a hundred varieties of chestnuts. The caloric value of chestnuts is high, (isn’t it so for everything that’s delicous?) 100g of chestnuts contain 193 calories. However, this caloric intake tends to drop if the chestnuts are boiled: 100 grams of boiled chestnuts contain about 120 kcal. Chestnuts are rich in complex carbohydrates, fiber, vegetable proteins and mineral salts. They offer an excellent supply of B vitamins and, of course, do not contain cholesterol. Their nutritional profile makes them the perfect health ally, and places them right on my November shopping list, especially for my Thanksgiving dinner table. 
 
Among the recognized benefits of chestnuts, they contribute to gut health, circulation and the nervous system. Their energy boost makes them excellent for fighting stress and fatigue. The good iron content makes chestnuts a valid food to combat anemia. The folic acid contained in these fruits is also excellent for pregnant women. While it’s acceptable to eat them raw, they are heavy on the stomach, so it’s best to always eat them cooked.  We are used to "roasted chestnuts," but chestnuts can actually be prepared in a few different ways.
 
In the oven: The procedure is very easy and also quite fast. With a paring knife, gently mark each chestnut with an X, cutting through the skin.  Place the branded chestnuts on a baking sheet and roast them at 350 ° C for about 30 minutes, shaking the pan several times so they roast evenly. When finished, close the chestnuts in a paper bag or wrap them in a damp cloth and let them rest for five minutes, the steam will soften the skin and it will be easier to peel them.
 
Boiled chestnuts are a great way to avoid the smoky notes of roasting. In addition, the boiled fruit can become the basis for a delicious dessert: just add mascarpone cream or whipped cream to the chestnut puree.  After washing and cutting the fruits, boil some water adding a little coarse salt and, to taste, other aromas such as bay leaves. Dip the chestnuts and boil them. For every pound of fruit, it will take you 45 minutes.
 
Preparing chestnuts in the microwave is also an option. After cleaning and cutting the fruits, soak them in water for 10 minutes. Drain the chestnuts and arrange them on the microwave plate. Cook at 800W for 5 minutes. Once cooked, also put them in a paper bag to make peeling easier.
 
If you do not want to use a classic or microwave oven, or to wait the necessary time for boiling, cook the chestnuts in a pan. But remember that you will need the special saucepan with holes to prepare them perfectly.  Proceed with cleaning and engraving the fruit. After that, cook the chestnuts in a pan over medium-low heat for about 15 minutes. Turn them often to ensure even cooking. After cooking, wrap everything in a damp cloth to facilitate peeling.
 
Now time to go and prepare some chestnuts!
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Fried Calamari

11/14/2020

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​I grew up on the Calabrian coast in Italy. While relatively unknown to US travelers, Calabria is breathtakingly beautiful, especially the seaside coast and the mountains. One benefit of living on a relatively unspoiled region is the pureness of the cuisine that stems from it. Be it delicious mushrooms like porcini found in the mountains, the abundance of summer tomatoes,  or even the organic and free-range meats such as fresh chicken or pork, Calabria is a bounty for the senses when it comes to food.
 
Being on the coast, Calabria doesn’t lack for incredible seafood. I have yet to meet a fish or crustaceous that I don’t like, one of my favorite dishes would have to be a steaming hot plate of fried calamari. Give me that, and the chances I’ll share are next to none! Calamari is another name for squid and it’s a favorite appetizer among Italian restaurants here in the US. Many people might shy away from cooking them home as they can create a bit of a mess! That said, the mess is reduced substantially when you buy already clean calamari (un-cleaned calamari can create an inky mess). And when frying, using a splatter shield to prevent them from bursting all over your stove.  These two steps alone will reduce the mess while cooking them.
 
Calamari are available at all main grocery stores and relatively inexpensive compared to other seafood, which we all know can be costly.  Frozen calamari are also available and you can find them in a bag in the freezer aisle. Calamari are often sold in rings, or as whole squid. I like using both the body and the tentacles, which crisp up nicely when fried.  
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Fried Calamari
Serves 4 small appetizers
Ingredients
1 pound calamari rings and tentacles
1 cup milk mixed with 2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour (optional: you can season the flour with black pepper, garlic or onion powder or dry herbs.)
2 teaspoons salt plus more for serving
vegetable oil for frying
 
Instructions
  1. Place the calamari in a bowl with the milk and lemon juice and stir to combine. This tenderizes the calamari. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. (This step is optional.)
  2. To a medium frying pan, add about 3-4 inches of oil. Heat to 375 degrees F.
  3. Place the flour and salt in a medium bowl, mix to combine.
  4. Drain the calamari from the milk and dredge them in the flour. Place on a clean dish until you have them all coated in the flour.
  5. Depending on the size of your frying pan, carefully add about 8-10 pieces of calamari in the oil. (They will splatter so be careful of any kitchen incidents.) Cook for 2-3 minutes or until golden brown.
  6. Remove the calamari from the oil and drain on clean paper towels. Repeat until you have fried all the calamari.
  7. Add additional salt over the calamari, if needed. Serve immediately while hot. (They get gummy as they cool off.)
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Tuscan Chestnut Cake / Castagnaccio Alla Toscana

11/14/2020

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​What could be better than fall in Italy? I simply don’t know and it pains me dearly that I am not there right about now. It’s the best time of the year to do just about anything. Sightseeing without the crowds, and the heat, walking around with just a light jacket, and enjoying a hot cappuccino at the local bar. Indeed there isn’t much better. But until we’re able to travel back to Italy, in the fall or any time of the year for that matter, we must bring Italy to us, and one sure way to do so is by cooking Italian, of course!
 
Castagnaccio is a typical end-of meal dish prepared with chestnut flour and sweetened with raisins. Pine nuts, walnuts and rosemary are also added. It is difficult to establish the exact origin of the castagnaccio. And it’s just as difficult to describe the consistency. We use the term “cake” liberally here, as it’s not a cake at all, but it’s stick to your ribs thick, almost fudgy in consistency, although there’s no chocolate here. It’s not at all sweet, other than the added raisins, our version here has no sugar. This is a great way to end a meal in place of ending it with fruit or otherwise sweet dessert. One might say that this is almost savory as oppose to sweet. This is the Tuscan version of castagnaccio, but this “cake” is also prepared in Veneto, Piedmont, Lombardy, basically all the regions where chestnuts are a very popular ingredient in the kitchen. What all the variants have in common is the peasant origin of the castagnaccio: water, chestnut flour and rosemary. Each family holds their own recipe for castagnaccio and here’s our version. 
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Tuscan Chestnut Cake / Castagnaccio Alla Toscana
 Ingredients
½ cup raisins (I prefer golden raisins)
4 cups chestnut flour
2 ¾ cups cold water
¾ cup pine nuts
1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped
1 sprig of rosemary, stem removed
Dash of salt
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
 
Directions
  1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
  2. Soak the raisins in about 1 cup of cold water for about 10 minutes, set aside.
  3. In a large bowl, sift the chestnut flour. To the bowl, add the cold water and mix using a whisk, removing all the lumps. 
  4. Add the pine nuts and walnuts and mix well until they are incorporated. Reserve a few of each to place on top of the cake before baking.
  5. Drain the raisins and using a clean paper towel, squeeze out all the water. Add them to the batter and mix well, reserving a few to decorate the top of the cake. Add a dash of salt to the batter and mix.
  6. Coat a 12-inch cake pan with a bit of the olive oil. Pour the batter into the pan and spread evenly. Top the cake with the reserved pine nuts, walnuts and raisins. Add the sprigs of rosemary and drizzle on top the remaining olive oil that remained from having oiled the pan.
  7. Bake the castagnaccio for about 35 minutes, or until the edges have browned slightly and an inserted toothpick comes out clean.
* For a sweeter castagnaccio, add 2 – 3 tablespoons of sugar to the flour and continue on with the recipe as is. 
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  • CULINARY TOURS
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