​Seeing as Italy is 90%+ Roman Catholic, it’s not surprising to learn that Easter is Italy’s second most celebrated Holiday, right after Christmas, of course. Palm Sunday sets the tone for the entire week with religious celebrations and traditions. Yes, Italians celebrate the entire Holy week leading to the big day. You will find many offices, schools and government offices are closed on Good Friday, and some even the Thursday before. 

​Thousands of reenactments of the Passion of Christ take place all over Italy on Thursday night. Called “Maundy Thursday” or “Holy Thursday,” it is the day Christians believe Jesus washed the feet of his disciples. Many churches reenact this scene, as well as the Last Supper on the Thursday prior to Easter.

​Holy Friday is the day churches reenact the Via Crucis. The Way to the Cross is the 14-step Catholic devotion that commemorates Jesus Christ's last day on Earth as a man. Most towns in Italy celebrate in a processional pilgrimage and reenactment that ends at the town’s Calvary. Our home in Italy is located on the way from Church to the Calvary, so I recall vividly watching the parishioners walking from church to the Calvary, holding candles, some in bare feet as devotion. It very much resembles a funeral, and the atmosphere is no different.   

​Some traditions in Italy include Sicily’s “Vasa Vasa,” or Kiss Kiss. On Easter Sunday in southeast Sicily, there are two processions. One carries a statue of the Risen Christ and the other carries Virgin Mary, clad in back and in mourning. They are carried around the town’s main streets, until they meet. The Virgin is so content to see her Risen son that she throws off her black robe to reveal a celestial blue cloak and red dress. As she leans forward she plants two kisses on Jesus. Then spectators hear the sound of a band, church bells and fireworks in celebration. It’s a beautiful thing to experience this procession in person. 
 
This is certainly not the only tradition, cities such as Florence, Abruzzo, Milan and others have their own similar celebrations, usually including a procession, fireworks and musical bands. Not to be missed in person is Florence's Scoppio Del Carro. 

​And the celebration doesn’t end on Easter Sunday. The Monday after Easter is called “La Pasquetta” – or “Small Easter,” the day is reserved for picnics in the mountains, open-air markets, and overall cause to celebrate with more food, fun and friends. While the days leading to Easter can be very somber and subdued, and Easter Sunday is reserved for family, La Pasquetta is a joyous day mostly reserved for friends. To do it properly, one must back a picnic basket and head for the mountains!  

​Some foods that are enjoyed during Easter week include:
Stracciatella: Simple broth / soup with egg in it.
Agnello (Lamb): A favorite choice of meat for Easter in Italy.
Artichokes and Potatoes: Traditional side dish to agnello, especially in Rome.
Pizza Ripiena (aka: Pizza “Chiena”): Neapolitan stuffed pizza filled with cured meats, salami, cheeses, hard boiled eggs, ricotta, parmigiano cheese, mozzarella…..)  
Colomba Pasquale: Dove shaped sweet yeast bread very similar to Christmas panettone but shaped like an Easter dove.
Easter Bread: Sweetbread topped with whole (shelled) colored or plain eggs. In Calabria, this is called “Cuzzupa Calabrese.” Typically eaten for Easter breakfast. Click link for recipe. 
Pastiera: Neapolitan tradition of ricotta pie filled with cooked wheat and scented with citrus zest.
Chocolate Easter Egg: Italians give children chocolate eggs as oppose to chocolate bunnies.

​If you happen to be traveling to Italy during Easter week, you are in for a treat. Easter is equally as important as is Christmas is in Italy, foods are plenty, processions are at every corner but keep in mind that tourists are also abundant! It is a peak travel time, so something to keep in mind when taking public transportations, making reservations or plans to visit any site that might be closed for the holiday.  

Buona Pasqua! 

POST UPDATE:
The images below are of the Good Friday Procession in my town in Southern Italy, held on Friday, March 30th. I was Baptized and received my First Holy Communion in the church in these images. 

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PUGLIA: SEPTEMBER 1 - 8, 2019. Click here for all trip info and to sign up! 
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Last year, I was in Calabria for almost two months, enjoying every minute of it, despite the unbearable heat. As a foodie and culinary instructor, I admit that I had my share of delicious food! All in the name of research, I tell myself! I want to be able to tell you all about the not-to miss spots while traveling! I love finding new spots, trying new foods and picking up a few new recipes along the way. 

One day before I was to leave for Boston, I was ready to call it a vacation. Time to pack my stuff, squeeze my clothes into an oversized luggage and make peace with the fact that most of what I was packing was now fitting, oh shall we say, a bit snug. All in the name of culinary research, I repeat to myself! 

After I packed, I took one last drive.  I went to say goodbye to my beloved beach. This is a ritual I've had forever, going to bid farewell to the ocean. I love the beach, so the last day is always a bit sentimental. After one last talk" with the ocean, telling it that I will see it again soon, I head home. And on my way home, I spot a shop I haven't entered yet. It's a "biscotteficio and paneficio!" How did I miss this?? A biscotteficio and paneficio is basically a shop that just sells cookies and various breads. No creamy pastries here, no tiramisu, no cannoli, just bread and dry biscuits. Should I go down? I contemplate this for only about 1 second before I make a b-line to park in front. After all, the clothes already fit tight, what's one more cookie going to do?

I go down, and the smell, oh the smell. If you have ever been to a bread shop on Italy, you know that it's the smell you will notice first. This smell should be bottled. But I'm saddened to see that their counter is looking a bit scarce. "Signora, e sera, non c'e piu' tanto." A polite way of saying, "Lady, you shouldn't have come earlier, it's evening, what did you expect!" But what do I spy from the corner of my eye? A few leftover cookies. Are they coated in cereal? Corn flakes? Who in the world would decorate cookies with corn flakes?! No thanks! But I'm here, I went through the trouble of parking (so much work!), it would be rude not to buy something, so I buy four. More out of duty than the fact that they appeal to me. I just can't wrap my head around the corn flakes.

I bring them home. I continue cleaning out our house before getting ready to leave in the morning. It's now nighttime, time for a little snack, no? I make a decaf cappuccino (breaking rule numero 1 by having cappuccino after 11AM), and munch on a cookie wrapped in corn flakes. CORN FLAKES!

And it's delicious! The darn, weird looking cookie, is delicious! Crunchy on the outside (the toasted corn flakes!), and soft on the inside, it's chocolaty, with a hint of almond and the inside melts in your mouth, while the outside provides the crunch. I love it! And I don't want to love it because it looks weird and corn flakes are what you eat if you want to starve, but it's delicious! 

Upon my return to the states, I go hunting for the recipe. I email the biscotteficio for the recipe. No reply. I email a baker friend, he doesn't make them. I email my aunt, a traditional Italian women, she's never heard of them. I Google "corn flake cookies" and the results are nothing like the ones I had in Italy!

But I am relentless! A few more emails, research, begging a few people, and.....AND, here is the recipe for you to try yourself! I played around with doses, flours, amounts of chocolate chips (too much of a good thing, can be too much!) and even butter consistency. Don't be quick to discount them because they sound odd and require 3 types of flour, none of which you will likely have in your pantry and look hard. They are easy to make, once you purchase all of  the ingredients!

Give them a try, you will not be sorry! 

Ingredients

7 tablespoons unsalted butter (butter should be very soft)
1/3 cup granulated sugar
¾ cup + 2 tablespoons  “00” flour
½ cup almond flour
½ cup potato flour
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup miniature chocolate chips
2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch of salt
Corn Flakes (as much as needed, at least several cups)
 
Directions
1) Preheat over at 350 degrees.
2) In a medium bowl, using electric mixer, mix the butter and sugar. Mix for several minutes, until well combined.  
3) Add the egg and vanilla and mix until combined.
4) In a separate bowl, mix the “00” flour, potato flour, almond flour and baking powder.
5) Add flour mixture to the egg and butter mixture just until blended. Do no overbeat.
6) Add a pinch of salt and the chocolate chips. Incorporate chocolate chips until they are evenly distributed in the batter.
7) Using a small cookie scoop, or two tablespoons, measure a small mound of dough and drop it in a bowl of corn flakes. Coat cookie with the corn flakes and place on a cookie sheet that has been lined with baking paper. Continue with the rest of the batter.
8) Bake cookies for approximately 17 – 20 minutes, max.
9) Dust baked cookies with powdered sugar and serve. This recipe makes approximately 25 cookies. 

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TUSCANY: MAY 1 - 8, 2019. Click here for all trip info and to sign up!
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I admit that even though I am a native of Italy, I sometimes experience moments of culture shock when I return there. In many aspects, the life of Il Bel Paese is very different than the one I've grown accustomed to here in the States. This made me wonder how a first time visitor might react in certain situations, if even this native has moments of culture shock! The below is just a partial list of situations you might encounter during your trip to Italy.  These might leave you wondering what the Italians are thinking, or perhaps, wishing you could adopt the same methods here in the States! 

Personal Space: Italy’s version of personal space is much, shall we say, closer than what we appreciate here in the States. This takes some getting used to, even for me. When in line at the grocery store or at the cafes, don’t be too surprised to find the next customer practically on top of you. This is their norm, take no offense. Italians also aren’t shy about asking personal questions; more than once you might find yourself asking, “Did we not just meet?” The same applies for the friendly kissing on the cheek when greeting someone, even if meeting for the first time. Actually perhaps more so if you’re meeting for the first time! It’s right cheek, left cheek and back to the right! Bottom line, if you’re getting ready to leave a family gathering, just get up at least a half hour before your scheduled departure, you’ll be kissing folks for a good bit.

La Bella Figure: The literal translation of this term is the beautiful figure. What this really means is the wanting to impress someone, or putting up a good appearance. Italians are proud folks and this term refers beyond outwards appearances, though that’s certainly part of it. It’s the housewife cooking up a feast for just a little get together, the clothes always pressed before an outing, their poise in which they carry themselves. It’s putting your best foot forward in everything you do. This is evident even when taking care of seemingly inconsequential activities, like going grocery shopping or running to the post office. The afternoon passeggiata, or stroll, is the perfect timing for this to come to life. You might assume everyone is headed to a get-together when in fact, it’s just time for their post-nap walk.

The Afternoon Nap: Speaking of, the afternoon nap in Italy is not reserved just for kids. In fact, most shops and businesses close from noon or 1:00pm to about 4:00pm or 5:00pm. Everyone goes home for a nice, leisurely lunch, which usually lasts at least one hour, then it’s time for a pisolino. Workers then return to work for a few hours before closing around 7:00pm to enjoy dinner. If you’re visiting Italy, particularly in the summer, you should also reserve the afternoon for some rest, as you might be sorely disappointed if you decide to head somewhere and find it closed!

Late Dining: The afternoon nap is likely a contributor to the late dining phenomenon that is prominent in Italy. Dinnertime in Italy is rarely before 8:00PM, in fact, it’s later than that in the summer months. If you’re headed to a restaurant, best to wait until at least 7:30 or 8:00pm, the staff might wonder what you’re doing there before that. Or they might assume that you’re there for a late lunch. Enjoy an afternoon gelato upon waking from your nap and during your passeggiata; it will tide you over until dinner.

Summer Vacation: It appears that just about the entire country is on vacation in August. Unlike the States, where one might wonder if a vacation request will be granted from their employer, it’s pretty much a given that the entire country shuts down for the month. Many travelers head to the Southern portion of the country, for the beautiful beaches and to enjoy its spicy food. Some travel elsewhere, but wherever they might be, it will likely not be in the office.

No Sense of Urgency: Oh how Italians march to a beat of their own drum! Italians live life as if they have all the time in the world. Lines move slowly, appointments are rarely kept true to their agreed upon time, a meal is a one-hour ordeal, at the minimum, and the hustle and bustle that we’re accustomed to here in the States is relatively unheard of in Italy. This could be a blessing or a curse, depending on the situation. But if you have the misfortune of having to visit the post office or a bank in the summer months, pack your patience. A full cell phone battery might also help; you’ll be checking Facebook for a while during your wait. They have a saying: Piano Piano. No, that's not the musical instrument you play, it means: Slow, Slow! Everything is done Piano Piano! 

The Man Purse: If you’ve never been to Italy or Europe, this one will shock you indeed. Every man, from the lawyer to the farmer to everyone in between, carries a pocketbook. They might not call them such, but that’s essentially what they are! They vary in size, some small enough to just carry a pack of cigarettes and car keys, to larger ones that downright compete with the size of a woman’s purse. But I’ll dare you an espresso that you’re not going to find a man without one. 

Cornetti, Cakes & Cookies: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, or so we’re told here in the US! In Italy, the preferred breakfast consists of Cornetti, preferably warm and cream filled, (though similar, they’re not to be confused with the French croissant), with cakes or cookies as close seconds. The cafes are filled with these delicious goodies served with cappuccino or espresso and children and adults alike devour these like they’re going to out of business. And I can attest that nothing beats the smell of freshly baked cornetti coming from coffee shops in the early morning hours. Just go with it and don’t flight it, there’s plenty of time to eat toast and jam or cold cereal when you return home. I highly suggest the hazelnut cream-filled one, like the one I had below, you’ll thank me later.

Il Dolce Far Niente! Oh the sweetness of doing nothing! We’re not used to that here in America. It makes us feel unproductive if we’re not stressed, or running late to another meeting. Frankly, Italians enjoy doing nothing. They’ve mastered enjoying life, sitting back and people-watching or as the proverbial saying goes, just stopping to smell the roses, or in their case, the espresso. You’ll end up wondering if they ever actually work. Somehow life still goes on, and it’s a good life indeed.

Although the above situations might make one experience moments of culture shock, I am a firm believer in assimilating to the ways of Italy when visiting. If, after all, we would expect things to be exactly as they are at home, we might as well stay there. Go with the (slow) flow that is Italy, enjoy La Dolce Vita as much as possible when there, this is after all, a vacation, enjoy every moment of it.

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Ready to make your 2019 Italian Travel Dreams come true? Consider joining us in one of our Culinary Adventures! We have three planned!
​
TUSCANY: MAY 1 - 8, 2019. Click here for all trip info and to sign up!
PUGLIA: SEPTEMBER 1 - 8, 2019. Click here for all trip info and to sign up! 
SICILY: SEPTEMBER 10 - 18, 2019. Click here for all trip info and to sign up! ​​​